Fabric Formed Concrete Fire TableONE: FORMINGThe formwork does not need to be exceptionally strong because this is a hollow, fiber-reinforced piece. The form is constructed from 3/4″ Melamine that’s been ripped to size on a table saw. What You’ll Need Heavy Duty Stapler Staples Table Saw Cordless Drill 1-1/4″ Drywall Screws Pre-Drill and Countersink Bit Stinson Fire Table Instructional Drawings 19″ Burner Assembly What You’ll Need Control Box Vinyl Upholstery Fabric 1″ Insulating Foam 2″ Insulating Foam 1/8″ Luan Foam-Lok Adhesive Clear Packing Tape Contact Adhesive Step 1 – Burner Knockout The knockout for the burner assembly is cut from 1″ thick insulating foam.It is 1/2″ smaller than the outside rim of the burner. This gives the burner a 1/4″ wide lip to drop down onto.The perimeter of the knockout can be covered with 1″ wide edge-banding to hide any imperfections in the foam.Step 2 – Control Box Knockout The Control Box door will be installed in the side of the piece, offering access to the on/off valve for the gas burner.The knockout is cut from 2″ thick insulating foam and then faced with smooth laminate. The laminate is glued to the foam using contact adhesive.A larger square is cut from luan, which will create a small recess so the control box mounts flush with the wall of the fire table.Step 3 – Burner Knockout 2 A foam disc is needed to create a bump to stretch the fabric over. This disc is mounted directly to the baseboard and the fabric is stretched over top.The disc is made from 2″ thick insulating foam that is glued together. In total it is 4″ thick and 1/4″ larger than the diameter of the rim of the burner.The additional 1/4″ will provide enough room for the burner assembly to drop easily into place.The foam disc is topped with a disc made of 1/4″ thick Luan. This will give something for the screws that hold the burner knockout something to bite into.After the knockouts are completed, the thick disc is adhered to the baseboard using contact adhesive, silicone, or similar.Step 4 – Fabric Form One continuous piece of fabric is needed for a project like this.The fabric is laid across the form and pulled tight to one side.It is helpful to have someone pull the fabric tight while another person staples it in place.Using a heavy duty stapler, wrap the edges of the fabric under the baseboard, and staple in from below.Staples in the edge of the baseboard will interfere with the form walls. Avoid tearing or ripping the fabric during this step.Step 5 – Fabric Form It may be necessary to remove some staples to adjust and reattach the fabric.The staples holding the fabric should overlap each other. At minimum, there should be a 1/4″ gap between them.When the fabric is tight, trim and discard the excess.Center the 1″ thick burner knockout on the bulge and secure it with Foam-Lok adhesive and a few drywall screws.Step 6 – Form Walls The form walls are cut on a table saw from 3/4″ melamine coated particle board.In this project they are about 16″ tall.The form walls should be as tall as the deepest part of the burner assembly, in order to hide the plumbing from view.Take care not to tear the fabric around the edges when installing the form walls.The form walls are screwed into the edges of the base board using 1-1/4″ drywall screws. Pre-Drill and Countersink them.Step 7 – Install Feet and Control Box Knockout In order to provide ventilation for liquid propane, this fire table will be raised up from the ground by 1-1/2″.Each corner is capped with 1-1/2″ thick plywood faced with laminate. The concrete will be built up around these pieces, which will create an air gap between the walls and the ground.The control box knockout is lined up with the plumbing from the burner and secured to the inside of the form with spray adhesive.A template is used to ensure the knockout is level and even to the wall.Next: Vacuum HookupA shop vac is attached to the form base during casting to provide suction that pulls the vinyl fabric into graceful curves around the rigid foam risers.